When it comes to luxury watch auctions, few names carry as much weight as Patek Philippe. Sotheby’s is getting ready to present one of the most standout collections of these iconic timepieces in decades at its Important Watches auction on June 10 in New York.
The Important Watches sale will feature an exceptional collection of rare timepieces, including several highly sought-after models and historically significant pieces. Among them is a platinum and diamond-set pocket watch once owned by the infamous American gangster Al Capone, adding a unique element to the auction.
The auction will include six minute repeaters, an unprecedented number for a single sale, alongside three vintage double-signed grail watches. One of these is a pink gold second series ref. 2499 retailed by Gobbi Milano, which is believed to be the only one of its kind in existence. The lineup also features a sapphire-set Nautilus and other rare models.
The torch, however, goes to the Patek Philippe platinum and diamond-set keyless wind open face pocket watch, dating from around 1919, and previously owned by Al Capone. Although it is unknown where Mr. Capone purchased the watch, his family reports that he replaced the original plain case with a custom solid platinum one. The dial features Breguet numerals and a period-appropriate long signature. Over time, the dial has aged noticeably, and the minute hand is missing. On the back, the Chicago gangster had 90 single-cut diamonds set to spell out his initials “AC” in an Art Deco style. Last auctioned by Witherell for $229,900 in 2021, this watch is estimated by Sotheby’s to sell between $80,000 and $160,000.
The Patek Philippe ref. 2499 ‘Second Series’ Gobbi-Milano is another key piece. This perpetual calendar chronograph is among the most complicated watches ever produced by Patek Philippe. Only nine units were made per year over a 35-year span. This example, in pink gold with the Gobbi-Milano retailer stamp, has been preserved in museum-grade condition and carries a pre-sale estimate between $3 million and $5 million.
Also featured is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2524 minute repeater retailed by Gübelin. Fewer than 50 of these watches were made, and only two were produced in pink gold. This particular watch has not been publicly shown since it was sold in 1989 during the landmark ‘The Art of Patek Philippe’ auction. Its pre-sale estimate is between $1.25 million and $2.5 million.
The collection also includes the Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R World Time ‘Rare Hand Crafts,’ a minute repeating world timer with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting Lake Geneva. This model was only available by application to select clients and carries an estimate of $550,000 to $1.1 million.
The Ref. 3448 Perpetual Calendar ‘Beyer’ is notable for being the first automatic perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe. It tracks the days in each month, including leap years, requiring no adjustment until 2100. Fewer than 130 white metal examples were produced, and this is the only known white gold watch double-signed by Beyer. Its estimate ranges from $500,000 to $1 million.
Finally, the auction features the Patek Philippe Ref. 5711P ‘Sapphire,’ one of the rarest Nautilus models produced between 2010 and 2013. This platinum watch is set with 32 baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel, 12 sapphire baguette hour markers, and a flawless diamond at 6 o’clock on the bezel, a feature exclusive to platinum models. It carries an estimate of $300,000 to $600,000.
An exhibition will be open to the public from June 6 to 9 at Sotheby’s New York galleries, allowing visitors to see these exceptional watches in person. This auction offers collectors and enthusiasts a rare chance to acquire some of the most significant and rare Patek Philippe pieces ever offered for sale.
