Maria Grazia Chiuri has officially stepped down as the artistic director of womenswear at Christian Dior, bringing to an end a nine-year tenure during which she helped shape a modern identity for the LVMH-owned brand and drove significant commercial success.
Ms. Chiuri’s exit had been anticipated for months, but the confirmation arrived just days after she presented her final collection, Dior’s 2026 Cruise show—at the historic Villa Albani Torlonia in Rome, her hometown. The show served as a closing statement for a designer who has consistently woven personal, cultural, and political themes into her work.
When she joined Dior in 2016 from Valentino, Ms. Chiuri became the first woman to ever lead the brand’s creative direction. It marked a turning point for the house, which had long been known for its Parisian couture legacy. Over the next nine years, she introduced a modern perspective and helped drive estimated revenues from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9 billion in 2023, according to HSBC.
During her time at Dior, Ms. Chiuri’s collections were designed to fit into the lives of modern women—clothes intended for work, travel, and daily wear, while still carrying the elegance expected from the house. She reduced the brand’s dependence on its iconic Lady Dior handbag and introduced a broader mix of popular products, including the Book Tote, the Bobby Camera Bag, and seasonal versions of the Saddle Bag originally created by John Galliano.
Ms. Chiuri also pushed the boundaries of where and how Dior presented fashion. Her shows were staged in global locations, from India to Mexico, and consistently highlighted local craftsmanship. Many of these presentations carried strong feminist messages. Her debut show featured a white T-shirt with the quote “We Should All Be Feminists,” drawn from Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay. In 2020, one of her runway sets included neon signs by artist Claire Fontaine with messages like “Consent” and “Patriarchy = Oppression.” She, effortlessly, merged elegance with power.
Maria Grazia Chiuri said, “I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the ateliers. Their talent and expertise allowed me to realize my vision of committed women’s fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.”
Delphine Arnault, who became CEO of Christian Dior Couture in 2023, acknowledged Ms. Chiuri’s impact and thanked her for her contributions, saying, “She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, contributing significantly to its tremendous growth. I am thankful for her tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity.”
The process behind Ms. Chiuri’s exit has taken time, with both the designer and LVMH working to finalize the terms and timing of her departure. Her next professional steps have not been disclosed. For now, she is expected to focus on Teatro della Cometa, a 233-seat theatre in Rome that she purchased in 2020 and began restoring in 2023. A lifelong enthusiast of theatre and dance, Ms. Chiuri has been involved in the project as a personal passion.
Ms. Chiuri’s last collection for Dior, the Cruise 2026 collection, saw Rome as the inspiration. She designed the collection as a personal tribute to her hometown, drawing from its rich history filled with images from cinema, theater, art, and fashion.
This season, the collection embraced white in a variety of textures and fabrics, creating a fresh and striking visual effect. Menswear elements were seamlessly incorporated, with vests and tailcoats paired alongside long, flowing skirts. Military jackets received a modern update with black edging, producing sharp contrasts that evoked the mood of a classic black-and-white film. Adding to the theatrical atmosphere, whimsical masked characters appeared in flowing capes that sparked the imagination.
Floral lace was used to both conceal and reveal the wearers’ silhouettes, tracing the body softly while maintaining a delicate balance. Undergarments were brought to the surface, complemented by cascading ruffles, ethereal petals, dotted tulle, and intricate embroidery.
Velvet made a subtle return as a tribute to the Fontana sisters, whose designs graced numerous films, including Anita Ekberg’s iconic looks in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. The collection’s final look—a trompe-l’œil gladiator armor dress, highlighted feminine strength and the creative force behind the designs.
Ms. Chiuri, who is 61, received the title of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor in 2019 and holds a career that includes key roles at both Valentino and Fendi prior to joining Dior. Her exit comes at a time of broader shifts in the fashion industry, with brands like Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, and Versace also preparing to reveal new creative directions.
With Kim Jones also exiting Dior in January 2025, Jonathan Anderson, former creative director of Loewe, has now joined Dior as the sole creative director for men’s, women’s and haute couture collection. He is just the second designer, after the founder Christian Dior himself, to hold the position for the entire house. Mr. Anderson’s debut as artistic director of Dior’s menswear collection is scheduled for June 27 during Paris Fashion Week.
