While florals might not be groundbreaking for spring, they certainly seem to stir a thrill in a winter collection. Taking inspiration from the artworks of American artist Albert York, Loewe’s Fall-Winter 2024 collection for women is all about nature in mellow shades.
The décor for the runway show referenced the abundance of greenery in the oeuvre of the painter, who preferred to depict idyllic landscapes in his paintings. In keeping with the theme, designer Jonathan Anderson’s silhouettes dialogued with 18 of the artist’s pictures featured on the walls.
Offering multiple levels of understanding, each of the silhouettes played with perception, inviting a closer look. Coat collars reveal wooden carvings, while floral tapestries are reprised in beaded embroidery.
A profusion of miniature ornamentation graces not only clothing but also biker boots for a bucolic stroll or materializes botanical relief on Squeeze bags.
The belt is deconstructed with a buckle that fastens the draping of a dress or transforms into a heeled mule. A giant water droplet is suspended on the shoulder like a magnifying glass to emphasize the floral print.
Happy florals infuses the collection: a bustier sculpted like petals, a hand-beaded asparagus bag or pants with radish or turnip prints. These are paired with feminine-masculine shirt-tie, balloon pants, coats with dual long tails, jackets and flowing slacks.
Ostrich leather appears in a trompe-l’œil print on a suit. Playful apparitions include a sculpted dress with a dog print across the entire front, or a sweater with pulled threads to create a fluffy foam effect.
There are checks – a plenty of it – in all their vintage glory.
From chic to androgynous to sculpted, the collection goes through a range of silhouettes.