LF Review: ★★★★★
While pineapple on a pizza or French fries with ice cream might not be everyone’s cup of tea, some experiments turn out to be legendary and create a whole new style of gastronomy. Rooted in the migration of Japanese communities to Peru more than a century ago, Nikkei is more than just fusion—it is a layered cuisine built on cultural exchange, adaptation, and evolution.
Located on the 37th floor of St. Regis Mumbai, Koishii is an intimate yet glorious restaurant. High ceilings and walls decorated with rustic elements are quintessential for a place that promises to offer something more than just an upbeat restaurant. It feels like a pause amidst the chaos of the city. “What drew me to Mumbai is its evolving culinary spirit,” says Koishii’s Chef de Cuisine, Chef Willman Lan Thorne. “There’s a unique blend of tradition and modernity here, which mirrors the philosophy of Nikkei cuisine itself. Furthermore, we find in India an incredible pantry of products and spices that allow us to reinterpret our dishes without losing the Nikkei DNA. Mumbai offers us the opportunity to create progressive Nikkei cuisine, adapted to the place but true to its essence.”
Koishii’s backbone is a solid chef duo that is determined to make you fall in love with the food and the cuisine. With over 18 years of experience, Chef Thorne’s culinary passport reads like a global adventure—from the Middle East to Latin America. His work across the globe made him understand that food is a universal language, but it needs to adapt to the cultural context and local flavours to truly connect with people.
From including the regional produce to managing diners’ expectations, Chef Thorne regards his experiences as key to understanding Nikkei cuisine from a broader and more contemporary perspective. “For example, in Egypt, certain ingredients had to be adjusted due to cultural issues; in Dubai, the public was more cosmopolitan and required constant innovation. And in Panama, seeing a kosher market gave me a different approach than I had before. All of this trains you to maintain a balance between respect for tradition and contemporary creativity,” he explains. Chef Jesús Caballero wears the sous chef hat and has honed his gastronomical finesse for over a decade.
So what makes Koishii different in a city that’s becoming more adventurous with fusion fare? According to Chef Thorne, it’s the restaurant’s deep respect for Nikkei’s origin story. “We’re not blending for the sake of it. There’s a real narrative here—a legacy.” And I was there to test it out.
New menu, new vision
While I was breezing through the latest menu, we received our first round of drinks: One Night in Tokyo, a spirit-forward cocktail with sake, yuzu, and bitters, and Spicy Passion Fruit Pisco Sour, with bright, fruity, and sweet-tart notes.
If you love experimenting with your meat options, the Ahiru Gyoza is a great starter option. The Duck Confit was tender, juicy, and flavourful, with a beautiful crispy exterior. The dipping sauce had a decent kick of soy, yet was refreshing. Vegetarians can try Edamame with Parmesan and Truffle.
While different in many ways, Japanese and Peruvian food traditions also share a few key similarities. The use of fresh seafood, prominent umami flavour profile, love for rice and most importantly – aesthetic artistic presentation. Chef Thorne and Chef Caballero build on these similarities, and accent them with techniques and styles from either cuisine to not only make them more palatable, but also innovative. For example, the Sake Tiradito, a traditional Peruvian delicacy, which can also be described as a long-lost sister of sashimi, gets to be a standout dish at Koishii with a delicately sliced piece of Scottish salmon and a harmonious blend of ponzu dressing, avocado, and sweet corn. “We seek to innovate without losing the DNA of Nikkei cuisine: a tiradito is still a tiradito, but it can include tiger’s milk infused with local ingredients, or a togarashi with a touch of Indian spices that enhances the flavour without betraying tradition,” says Chef Thorne.
Next, I opted for the Asparagus Tempura Maki Roll – a simple choice, but with the addition of mango. The maki rolls appeared to be like traditional sushi, but they pleasantly surprised me. “We draw inspiration from local ingredients in India, the flavours I’ve discovered on my travels, and techniques I’ve perfected over the years. For example, we combine yellow chilli pepper and miso with local ingredients, such as Kashmiri chili or curry leaf, achieving flavours that surprise but remain true to the Nikkei essence,” explains Chef Thorne. The crunch of the asparagus and creaminess of the cream cheese and avocado, with a hint of the sweetness of the mango, teleported me straight to food heaven. It was balanced, deliberate and thoughtful.
The key to a great dish is the ingredients, and Koishii sources the best to make it possible. Ingredients like Peruvian corn, aji amarillo, and traditional Japanese spices are flown in to ensure authenticity. These are then paired with the local produce, creating a truly contextualised, wholesome version of Nikkei cuisine. “We’re not copying Tokyo or Lima,” Chef Thorne emphasises. “We’re creating something that speaks to Bombay.”
I was soon presented with the Avocado Brasa, a showcase of a contemporary interpretation of the cuisine, with yet another beautiful presentation. Grilled avocado was served with a medley of complementary ingredients like Ponzu Butter, garlic candy and a poached egg. You can also opt for a vegetarian version with inka sauce instead of eggs. Another highlight was the Peruvian Udon noodles – a classic Nikkei dish that goes straight to your soul. The thick, bouncy, chewy udon noodles, stir-fried tofu, smoked aji amarillo, and crispy cashew nuts fill your palate with flavours and textures.
My favourite, however, was the Arroz Con Pollo, which in Spanish translates to ‘Rice with Chicken’. The dish came with two succulent pieces of chicks (the young chicken) and creamy, moreish Japanese rice on the side. Crispy chalaquita (Peruvian salad), fried garlic, and kale chips add to the crunch of the dish. After a roller coaster of flavours and ending the dinner on a high note, the Rocoto Chocolate Fondant entered. This simple-looking dish was all things dessert dreams are made of – Belgian Chocolate, Peruvian rocoto (a South American chili pepper!) and ice cream.
The final verdict
Koishii is a gorgeous restaurant with even more beautiful food. Combining Japanese and Peruvian cuisines is an ongoing journey that will never cease to innovate and experiment with techniques, styles, ingredients, and flavours from within and beyond its borders. Its latest menu celebrates Chef Thorne’s personal evolution as a chef. “It’s a reflection of where I’ve been and where I want to go,” he says. From yellow chilli miso paired with curry leaves to sashimi-style dishes that use seasonal Indian fruits, each plate is a story in itself.
In a city that embraces both authenticity and reinvention, Koishii is carving out its own identity. Nikkei cuisine, in India, is no longer a novelty. It’s a movement, and Mumbai is hungry for more.
LF Review: ★★★★★
Coordinates: Level 37, The St. Regis, The Penthouse, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
