Taj’s Loya Brings its Secrets From The North for a Delectable Feast to Mumbai, Successfully
The celebrated Loya opens its third outlet at the group’s flagship hotel, the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, successfully keeping alive its original spirit, while adding a bit of Mumbai to the experience.
Loya Chaat. Timbri Jhinga. Attari Murgh. Malerkotla Keema Chole. Dum Nalli. Yes, as the names suggest, while this is unmistakably a restaurant offering north Indian cuisine, this is far from the usual north Indian fare offered elsewhere.
Loya had its beginning in Delhi and then opened in Bengaluru earlier. “Bringing Loya to Mumbai was about more than introducing North Indian cuisine—it was about offering an immersive experience that celebrates the region’s culinary heritage, techniques, and storytelling,” says Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, Brand Head, Loya. Loya’s tagline – ‘journey through the heart of the north’, implies a deeper dive into the cuisines of the north of India. The name elicits times when communal feasts were the order of the day.
“The opportunity lay in crafting a menu that stayed true to Loya’s essence while resonating with Mumbai’s evolved and adventurous dining audience.”
“Unlike Delhi, where North Indian flavours are deeply ingrained in everyday dining, Mumbai boasts a cosmopolitan palate with a penchant for global and coastal flavours,” elaborates Chef Wadhwa. “This diversity presented an opportunity to showcase a broader spectrum of north Indian cuisine, moving beyond the familiar and into the realm of rare, heirloom recipes. The opportunity lay in crafting a menu that stayed true to Loya’s essence while resonating with Mumbai’s evolved and adventurous dining audience. Achieving this meant educating guests about the depth of flavours, the philosophy behind the dishes, and traditional techniques like Dhungar, Dum, Baghar, and Sigdi. Sourcing authentic ingredients, some unique to north India, was equally critical to maintaining the integrity of each preparation. Thus, to balance authenticity with approachability—creating a celebratory, theatrical experience that mirrors Mumbai’s vibrant spirit while preserving the timeless traditions of North Indian cooking.”
Stepping Inside
The look of the restaurant retains the brand feel. Look out for grand arches, exquisite niches, intricate motifs, stone jalis and more, rendered perfectly with natural and aged textures. Beautiful brass lanterns set the mood for meal, seemingly at some distant northwestern highway serai. Diyas at the table provide an extra touch of warmth.
The bar courtyard, sculpted with natural rocks and boulders, and accentuated with a stunning waterfall, is designed to be reminiscent of the natural springs in the Himalayas. The distinctive furniture at Loya seeks inspiration from the traditional Indian khatia (woven Indian bed) and peeda (small woven Indian stool) and has been crafted from logwood with copper embellishments. Vibrant drapes, vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree jaalis, striking canopies and colourful awnings create a sense of nostalgia and are reminiscent of the erstwhile bustling bazaars of the North of India.
On entering, the eye is immediately drawn to the open kitchen. Interested guests can look at the various traditional cooking processes, behind glass screens of course, as the chefs pore over their earthen pots or fire up charcoal to prepare it for that sizzling tadka in the dal.
On the table
Instead of the usually creamy rich curries are delicate flavourful dishes, divided into courses – Pella Swaad’ or appetisers, ‘Saajha Swaad’ or mains, and ‘Mittha’ or desserts. From the Himalayan foothills, to Kashmir, from undivided Punjab and the upper reaches of the northern plains, these are recipes that bring alive home style dishes, albeit with premium plating and ambience. The brand favourites from their original menu in Delhi are all in place. Ingredients are sourced from local regions, and yes, the availability of certain dishes depends on seasonality.
Attari Murg
There are some local influences too. “Loya Mumbai stays true to its north Indian culinary roots while embracing the city’s dynamic spirit through thoughtful local and seasonal adaptations,” says Chef Wadhwa. “The menu incorporates coastal influences, featuring freshly sourced seafood prepared using traditional techniques, and evolves with Mumbai’s tropical climate, offering lighter, refreshing options during humid months. Regional twists include using local greens in the chaat sampler, kokum in the kadhi instead of yogurt, and an increased focus on seafood, reflecting the city’s abundant coastal produce.”
Jwala Macchi
Loya Ki Chaat is an elevated take on North India’s beloved chaat culture while the Chainaki Soup is a comforting and flavourful introduction. For something unique, try the Cholai Seekh, a plant-forward innovation, or the Timbri Jheenga, featuring prawns prepared with a regional twist.
Bhaangjeera Murg
For main course, delve into signature dishes like Jwala Fish, which marries coastal influences with North Indian spices, or the Kangra Khodiya Gosht, a slow-cooked mutton preparation brimming with rich spice blends. The Bhangjeera Murgh offers nutty, earthy flavors with rare ingredients, while the Loya Kadhi and Kafuli present hearty vegetarian options that highlight traditional North Indian cooking techniques.
Badana Pearl
Desserts are delectable as you conclude with the nostalgic Doodh Jalebi or explore unique creations like Gud Ke Mann and Badana Pearls. For a playful touch, try Loya Khel, a dessert inspired by Mumbai’s love for cricket.
In the glass
Loya’s bar programme expands on the Paanch cocktail philosophy, highlighting Indian spirits, fermentations, and infusions that resonate with Mumbai’s experimental cocktail culture. It is Loya’s take on drinks inspired by the ubiquitous number ‘5’ and its overtones across India. From the five rivers of the north to the five senses, the five elements of life, and closer home, in the five tenets of Loya’s drink philosophy — Authenticity, Spirit, Confluence, Timelessness, and Innovation.
Highlights include the Himalayan Mule, a fragrant blend of lemongrass-infused vodka, basil limoncello, and Loya ginger beer crowned with nasturtium leaves; the Gulab, an enticing concoction of rose-cardamom vodka, fresh pineapple juice, and lemon citrus-rose mist topped with pineapple foam; and the Mulethi, a refreshing infusion of mulethi-infused gin, hoya citrus blend, and honeycomb tuile.
Loya at The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai offers more than just a meal—it’s a multisensory experience that combines the richness of North Indian cuisine with a theatrical dining atmosphere, points out Chef Wadhwa. For the actual experience, make a reservation.
LF Review:★★★★
Coordinates: Apollo Bandar, Colaba, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
Ph: +91-22-66653278 or email: loya.tmhbom@tajhotels.com
Note: Loya welcomes young guests above 10 years of age.
