It was early 19th century when India’s Mussoorie and its charm caught the eye of the British. Lined with lush forests and panoramic views, the town quickly became a bustling European enclave. However back then, it also attracted Indian royalties. The kings and princes of India, seeking to escape the summer heat, built quaint palaces and estates in the region. With a blend of Indian architecture and British colonial design, these royal abodes were their summer sanctuaries. What now remains are living museums where the remnants of the colonial era give you nostalgia.
I stand inside the premises of The Claridges Nabha Residence. Immersed in rustic red and white colours, it’s a single-storied residence retaining much of its colonial charm. The picturesque setting with surrounding resting hills gave the impression of Mussoorie’s ancient days as a quaint English town.
A summer home of the royals
Mussoorie’s landscape is dotted with former royal residences. At present, many of these royal abodes are converted into heritage hotels. And at The Claridges Nabha Residence, the legacy of the Maharaja of Nabha, has been beautifully preserved.
In 1949, Her Highness Urmilla Devi, the wife of Maharaja Pratap Singh of Nabha (a town in Punjab), began the legacy of the Nabha family on the estate. Perched high above the town of Mussoorie, this former summer house of the Nabhas enjoys a secluded and tranquil setting. The private hilltop location is away from the hustle and bustle, while still being within easy reach of the town’s main attractions.
Staying at The Claridges Nabha Residence is akin to stepping back in time. The first glimpse of the front porch with its stately columns and elegant wooden railings is a graceful reminder of old colonial quarters. After a long 4-hour drive from Delhi, the cool breeze and chirping birds soothed me as I stepped outside the car. High ceilings, expansive verandas, antique furnishings and chandeliers provide a portal to relive the grandeur of Princely India.
The old-world charm is palpable in every corner, especially in the lobby. Designed to be a living museum, it captures the essence of the estate’s regal history and its association with the Nabha family. Antique furnishings with rich upholstery and vintage woodwork of the royal family are a grand introduction to the property’s illustrious past.
Adorning the walls are old photographs of the royal family of Nabha. These sepia-toned images–of royal ceremonies, family gatherings, the dignified Nabha lineage and the grandeur of Maharaja Pratap Singh and Maharani Urmilla Devi’s lives–offer a visual narrative of the estate’s history. Historically enriching, as I moved from the lobby to my suite, the estate provided a window to the region’s storied past.
The suite features high ceilings and large windows accented with decor of colonial charm. From intricately carved wooden beds to elegant armchairs, the interiors are adorned with antique furnishings. Richly upholstered settees, ornate dressers, and vintage writing desks create an ambience of timeless elegance. Somewhere, you do feel a connection to the heritage of the royal family.
Mornings at The Claridges Nabha Residence feel like a serene retreat into nature’s embrace. Sit out in the open where tables are set for a feast for both the palate and the eyes.
Large windows offer panoramic vistas. The expansive verandah is an idyllic spot to sit; savour the views, and sip on a cup of tea, best enjoyed in the quiet embrace of the morning. The essence of the royal retreat embraces you, time seems to stand still.
Royal feasts
Mornings at The Claridges Nabha Residence feel like a serene retreat into nature’s embrace. Sit out in the open where tables are set for a feast for both the palate and the eyes. As the subtle morning sun kisses you, the scent of pine and the panoramic view of the surrounding hills soothe the soul. Platters of tropical fruits, freshly squeezed juices, fluffy scrambled eggs, piping hot parathas, freshly baked croissants and pastries give a hearty start to the day.
At the Pavilion Restaurant, the walls, ornately decorated in rich shades of crimson, antique lights and richly upholstered furniture tell you what regal decor truly is. The Victorian Bar blends luxury with a historical narrative. Step into colonial grandeur and elegance with rich mahogany furnishings, vintage leather chairs, and ornate chandeliers that cast a warm, inviting glow. The bar is the centerpiece of sophistication, with its polished wooden counters and shelves lined with an impressive collection of spirits and liqueurs.
Simple and wholesome–I chose to have a light dinner. The meal began with the classic combination of roti (Indian bread), aloo jeera and palak (spinach) paneer. The palak paneer was a delightful blend of creamy spinach and soft paneer cubes. Never have I ever had a dish of palak paneer oozing out with such decadent flavours. The Aloo Jeera added a wonderful contrast while the rotis were warm and freshly made.
I simply could not have enough of their Shahi Tukda dessert. The richness of the dish, with its layers of bread soaked in fragrant milk and garnished with nuts, was the perfect sweet note to conclude the dinner.
But dining under the stars was also nothing short of enchanting. Starry skies transformed the evening into something magical while the live music session added to the ambience. But the best was yet to come—the food! Comforting jeera rice paired with aromatic dal was soul-warming and satisfying. For dessert, I indulged in Gulab Jamun which rounded off the meal perfectly. It was home-cooked goodness in a luxurious setting.
Charms Of Mussoorie
Even today, there’s a magic to Mussoorie. As you wind your way up the serpentine roads, the town reveals itself in all its splendour. From a vantage point high above, the houses, with their vibrant red, green, and white roofs, dot the landscape, while the verdant greenery of the surrounding hills provides a striking contrast.
The Mall Road with its vibrant energy is quite the heartbeat of this town. Once, this road was a place where only the privileged few could tread. Ironically today, this very stretch is a bustling hub overrun by Indian tourists. However, the Mall Road remains a place where the juxtaposition of colonial-era buildings with modern-day hustle and bustle is both nostalgic and frenzied.
The Mall Road’s transformation is not lost on those who know its history. It is bookended by two significant landmarks: the beautiful Mussoorie Library (now known as Gandhi Chowk) on the western end, and the historic Picture Palace on the eastern edge. From a distance, the historic library with its stately architecture stands out. In its heyday, Mall Road was lined with seven cinema halls besides Picture Palace, the first cinema hall in north India to run on electricity.
Trendy coffee shops and eateries serve a fusion of local and desi-Chinese cuisines. The eclectic mix of old and new is evident in places like Kelsang Friend’s Corner, where the comforting warmth of traditional momos meets the lively chatter of today’s youth, and Chick Chocolate brings a sweet nostalgia of homemade chocolates.
One of the highlights of Mussoorie is the ropeway that takes tourists from The Mall to Gun Hill, the town’s second-highest peak. Camel Back Road is another favourite among walkers and nature enthusiasts. Another accessible yet secluded spot for nature enthusiasts is Jharipani Waterfall, located approximately eight kilometres from the heart of Mussoorie.
The town is home to the legacy of Sir George Everest, the Surveyor General of India, who contributed significantly to the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India and led to the recognition and naming of Mount Everest. Perched at the edge of a cliff west of town lie the ruins of Sir George Everest’s whitewashed home.
In Mussoorie’s tranquil embrace exists a profound connection with His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. In 1959, amidst political upheaval and the Chinese occupation of Tibet, His Holiness and his followers walked for 15 days to reach the safety of India. When The Dalai Lama arrived in Mussoorie, he found refuge in a picturesque corner beyond a polo ground, now aptly called Happy Valley. This tranquil area became the first Tibetan settlement in India. The valley also has Shedup Choephelling monastery and a Tibetan school with prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.
It’s almost time for sunset as I reach the Dalai hill. Going beyond the conventional viewpoint, I encounter a panoramic view that stretches out over the rolling hills and verdant valleys. The sun has begun to go below the horizon while the sky is now painted in amber and crimson. The distant peaks stand sentinel over the tranquil scene; the breeze carries with it the faint scent of pine and the soft murmur of distant conversations. I feel a sense of tranquillity permeating inside.
The stars have begun to emerge in the darkening sky, and in Mussoorie, you learn that happiness is found in the simplicity of life…
LF Says: ★★★★
Coordinates: Airfield Barlowgunj, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, India
