Jaipur can never get old as a tourist destination. It’s traditional arches, combined with a youthful vibrancy, make it a dynamic destination. So if you are making your way to Jaipur, and looking to stay in a property close to the bustling old city, yet something quiet, Samode Haveli checks both these boxes.
The courtyard
Ornate décor
To start with, a confession. I made my way to Samode Haveli only after a scheduled trip to Ranthambore was called off when excessive rain led to sudden flooding. Was I disappointed? Initially I was, but as I made my way through Jaipur’s old city and veered off the main road to enter Samode Haveli, I instinctively knew that this was probably serendipity.
The entrance to the property is through an inclined ramp that gives you the first glimpse of the beauty of the property. Ornate arches, painted frescos, vintage décor, and an unmissable charm courtesy the stunning riot of colours catches my eye. As I make my way to the reception, I am besotted with the property. Plush with red velvet sofas, detailed paintings that cover the ceiling and Instagram-worthy corners are all part of this space, which I am told is several hundred years old.
Getting roomy
Walking through the courtyard with manicured landscaping and outdoor furniture, I make my way through a narrow stairway to reach my room – a haveli suite that has a living space, twin beds, and an attached bathroom. The décor is charming. The vintage vibe continues with the choice of furniture and furnishings – think four-poster beds, armchairs, marble bathrooms with standalone Elizabethan bathtubs. There is also a small private outdoor space that is part of the accommodation.
The Sheesh Mahal suite
Samode Haveli has 50 spacious rooms across categories – Deluxe rooms, Deluxe suites, Haveli suite and the Sheesh Mahal. The old-world charm is unmissable. Blending it with modern luxuries ensures that you never miss the rich history of the place.
The Haveli suite
The retreat
The resort itself is well laid out and feels like navigating an old home – which is exactly what it is, as the owners also stay on the property overseeing the operations. There is a beautifully refurbished lounge overlooking the courtyard that serves coffee, tea, and alcoholic drinks with small bites. The poolside bar and sundowners at the terrace offer beautiful views of old Jaipur.
The main dining space is another ornate hall with high ceilings and colonial style furniture. It has a lovely al fresco space that allows you to dine in the lap of nature. At the signature restaurant you can sample an elaborate breakfast buffet, as well as extensive lunch and dinner buffers (based on occupancy) and an à la carte menu that has an eclectic offering of local and continental fare.
If you are looking to celebrate a special occasion, the retreat offers private dining by the poolside or at their private stepwell, ensuring you have an intimate and memorable meal. The retreat also has a well-equipped gym, an in-house spa, and a swimming pool to relax in. Simply walking around the property is a great idea as you indulge in simple pleasures of bird song and rustling of leaves.
Experiential getaway
What makes a stay at Samode Haveli special, however, is the many experiences that you can sign up for (at an extra cost). I strongly recommend that you sign up for the curated Samode morning walk, to see how the Pink City wakes up. The guide takes you through the local market, where you can see a colourful flower market, vegetable market as well as see the local milk men busy with their work.
The bar
If you sign up for a cooking class with the chef, you can also buy fresh vegetables from the market, which will actually make way to your lunch plate! The walk takes you through some of the narrow bylanes of the old city to reach the ancient Govind Dev Ji Temple. When I went there, I was treated to a soulful aarti (prayer).
Private dining at Samode Haveli’s stepwell
The most incredible experience, however, is sampling some local food. We headed to a local store to sample delectable samosas, poha from a street cart (that was very tasty), and a piping hot cup of kulhad chai. As we hop on to an e-rickshaw back to the resort, I cannot help but think of how this was a well spent morning.
The swimming pool
The retreat also offers a jeep safari to the Jhalana where, if you are lucky, you can spot leopards. Do check with the reception for the exact timings as it happens both in the morning and afternoon. If you want a guided yoga session, sign up for a master class with the yoga expert. The in-house concierge can also assist with arranging vehicles for you to tour the city. There are a couple of stores in-house as well where you can buy interesting local fabrics and souvenirs.
In all, if you are looking to explore Jaipur with an offbeat twist, look no further than Samode Haveli.
