The venerable watchmaker, Favre Leuba, known for its FL 251 twin-barrel movement and the most striking Bivouac, is back. After creating ripples at the Geneva Watch Days last year with the introduction of 22 new models, the brand has its eyes set on reclaiming its past glory with a particular focus, seemingly, on India.
Favre Leuba is the second oldest brand in the world, and was the first Swiss watch brand to set foot in India back in 1865, with its timepieces gracing the wrists of collectors across Bombay, Calcutta, and far. Reiterating its newest collection, it seeks to draw on this rich heritage. The newest timepieces were showcased at special events in Kolkata, Ahmedabad, Chennai, and Hyderabad.
Speaking of the collection, the brand has kept the focus on revival and renaissance, and each piece pays homage to its storied past while setting a definitive course for the future. The Sea Sky Revival (₹3,80,000) is a 40mm sports chronograph inspired by the 1960s, powered by the FLC01 movement. It features tachymeter and telemeter scales, combining vintage aesthetics with functionality. Available in black, blue, or sunburst brown dials, it includes three sub-dials and broad arrow-style hands for a classic yet distinctive look.
Another highlight is The Chief Chronograph (₹4,10,000), a 41mm timepiece with a cushion case featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. Its sunburst dial is available in blue, ice blue, or black.
Having a similar design DNA as The Chief Chronograph, the Chief Date (₹2,20,000) stands out with its own character. Its 40mm case with a 10.8mm thickness offers a compact wrist presence. The dial features a high-relief hourglass pattern, inspired by Favre Leuba’s logo. Available in green, blue, or black, it also boasts an offset sunray finish.
A standout timepiece is the Deep Blue Renaissance (₹2,10,000), which modernizes its 1964 design with a 40mm case and dial options in deep blue, intense green, and anthracite grey, featuring a smoked effect for depth. It has a two-part sandwich dial with cutout indexes, larger vintage-inspired hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova for blue luminescence. Powered by the FLD02 calibre, it offers 300m water resistance.
Last but not the least is the Deep Blue Revival (₹2,20,000) that stays true to its 1964 predecessor, maintaining the original 39mm size and vintage design elements like a grey sunburst dial, baton indices, and aged radium-inspired Super-LumiNova. Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024, it features period-correct details, including a 4:30 date window and ‘DEEP BLUE’ text. However, modern upgrades include a FLD01 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve and increased water resistance (300m).
Reviving one of the oldest watch brands in the world, Patrik Hoffmann, Chairman of Favre Leuba, was on-hand at the events. A seasoned leader in the watch industry, Mr. Hoffmann previously served as CEO of Ulysse Nardin and Executive Vice President of Watchbox.
Recognizing the brand’s rich legacy and potential, he took on the challenge to revive this brand. Favre Leuba (established in 1737), was once managed by one family for eight generations. It was sold in 1985 following the quartz crisis. Since then, it has changed ownership multiple times, with various attempts to restore its former glory. One such effort came in 2011 when Titan acquired the brand. It is now owned by Ethos Limited via its subsidiary Silvercity Brands.
Is this the start of a new era, and will the brand be able to find its footing again?
