Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller presented its 2025 watch releases at the Watchland Private Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) event, shifting the design approach by starting with the movement rather than the case. Each watch was engineered from the calibre outward, allowing the internal mechanics to dictate the shape, structure, and display configuration. This shift was evident across several models, with three timepieces offering a distinct focus on technical construction and movement visibility.
The Cintrée Curvex Grand Tourbillon features the largest tourbillon ever made by Franck Muller, measuring 15.6 mm in diameter. The hand-wound FM CX 40T-CTR movement contains 279 components and was designed specifically to showcase the oversized tourbillon, which is mounted on a separate axis with a curved bridge.
Rather than resizing the movement to fit an existing case, the watch’s curved frame and raised sapphire dome were developed to accommodate the tourbillon’s height and positioning. The result is a case that visibly prioritizes mechanical function, with open space allocated around the tourbillon to emphasize its role in the watch’s performance.
The Curvex Master Chronograph introduces the FM CX 60-CHR manual movement with 304 components. The watch reveals the full chronograph mechanism, including the column wheel, vertical clutch, and levers—directly through the dial. The chronograph’s functional parts were placed on the top plate to allow visibility during operation, offering a clear view of the sequence from start to reset. The Cintrée Curvex-style case includes integrated pushers to streamline the exterior, while the internal architecture remains uncompromised and visually accessible.
The Vanguard Lady Skeleton is powered by the FM 1540-VS16 calibre and features a symmetrical skeletonized dial structure with geometric bridges that retain some feminine cues. The hand-wound movement offers a four-day power reserve, and despite its openworked construction, the layout remains clean and functional. This 38 mm watch is tailored for women who prefer mechanical watches with visible inner workings, and is available in versions that include diamond embellishments or hand-painted components.
The 2025 collection also includes several other releases, each carrying its own distinct approach to design, function, or form. The Cintrée Curvex Remember reverses the usual flow of time with counterclockwise movement. The Curvex CX Piano features a high-polish black lacquer dial with a minimalist, marker-free design. The Ryoko Kaneta Special Edition integrates artful skeleton bridges inspired by the Japanese artist’s signature patterns.
The Majestic 12 and Majestic Number focus on central symmetry and numeric emphasis. The Torsade brings a twisted architectural structure to the case design. Meanwhile, models like the Cintrée Curvex Lucky 8 and Lucky Charm experiment with playful, colourful gem settings. The Imperial Tourbillon is enhanced with new finishes, and the Cintrée Curvex Black Diamonds applies dark gemstones across the dial and case for a more contemporary, uniform look.
The wide range of Franck Mullers for 2025 will fit any style in your wardrobe – from the quirky to the elegant to the professional!
